Lastly, use a utility knife to trim the edges of the banding. To do this, lay the veneer banding onto the edge of the plywood and use an iron to heat up its adhesive backing.For the seat of the base, I wanted to finish the plywood edge but didn’t want to add any depth to the bench by capping it with a board, so I used veneer.For the base, repeat this process-marking the location of the joints, flipping the pieces to secure their joints with glue and pocket hole screws, placing it onto the front edge of the plywood pieces, and then gluing them in place.Once complete, apply glue to the front edge of the plywood pieces and then lay the face frames in place before securing them with nails. Finally, use glue and screws to connect the boards. Next, flip the pieces and drill pocket holes at each joint.To do this, lay the 1x2s in place to mark and cut their length and then to mark the location of the joints.Typically, you can nail the 1×2’s to the face of the assembly, but over time, the joints can separate and crack the finish, so it’s best to assemble with glue and pocket hole screws before nailing them in place. It is not time to create the face frames.Finally, stand the cabinet top upright, center the divider, and then screw through the backer and into the divider to hold it in place.Repeat the process to install the center divider between the two tall cubbies. To install the dividers, drill the countersunk pilot holes through the shelves and then into the top and bottom of the dividers, followed by screws.Install the top shelf flush with the top edge of the backer board and then use the vertical dividers to position the lower shelf, both with their pocket holes facing upward. Next, stand the assembly up to install the second outside wall before laying the assembled parts down on their back.With the groves facing down, glue and, screw the first outside wall to its edge, ensuring their bottom edges were flush. With the bench complete, it’s time to create the tall cubbies that set on top.Finish by securing the benchtop to the backer board. Now, it’s time to install the benchtop with glue and screws.Once all the legs are installed, insert the shelves, adjust their height, and secure them with screws. Use the shelves as spacers to position the remaining legs with equal spacing-applying glue to their back edge and then screwing through the backer board and into the leg.Repeat this process to attach the remaining outside leg. clamp one of the interior dividers to an outside leg with its front edges aligned to act as a spacer to position the backer. To assemble the base parts, attach the back between the outside legs, recessing it forward to make room for the baseboard.As a last bit of prep, I marked the outline of my baseboard on the legs and used a jigsaw to notch the back edge of each leg so that the cabinet would be sit flush against the wall. Next, make the cuts, spacing them 4 inches apart. I’m using a guide attached to my circular saw, but any straightedge will do. To do this, set the blade of your saw to about a 1/8 inch.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |